Mic Trouble-Shoot Procedures
All AEA Models
Mic has low output or distorting, and/or has decreased frequency response.
First check your signal path. Connect your mic directly to a preamp without any patch bays in-between. Try different cables and preamps to see if that helps.
If the issues are still there, then the ribbon could be stretched or damaged.
You can perform a ‘Shake Test’ to determine if the ribbon has been compromised.
Shake Test Procedure
- Wear headphones and mute your speaker monitors.
- Connect the mic and get a decent level in your headphones.
- Face front of mic directly at you, move mic forward and backward within a few inches as if you were playing a shaker but not too hard. This will make the ribbon move.
If you hear any thumping or scraping noise, the ribbon is stretched and needs replacing.
When performing this test with the R88 stereo mic, make sure you are only listening to one of the transducers at a time and you have that transducer facing directly at you.
Also, with the R88, if you are noticing one transducer having lower output than the other, try swapping out the channels and see if the lower level follows the transducer. (What do we do if the mic passes the shake test?
Mic has no output whatsoever
Passive Mic with fixed cable
If your mic is plugged in and has no output try another mic to be sure your signal path is correct. If another mic works, but there is still no output from your ribbon mic, check the xlr connector. Open the XLR connector and check that all three pins are connected to the cable. There should be no disconnected wires. If any wires are broken or disconnected it will need to be repaired. If the cable is cut, crushed or severely pinched, the cable may be damaged internally and may need to be replaced. If the XLR connector and cable are good, the problem is internal. You should send your mic to an AEA authorised repair facility for service.
Active models
- N22
- N8
- R84A
- R88A
- KU5A
- A440
If you have an active mic double check that the phantom power is turned on. You might also try a different mic to be sure your preamp and phantom supply are working properly. If the phantom is working and there is no signal at all, it could be a wiring problem or a blown ribbon. If your active mic has a fixed cable open the XLR connector and check that all three pins are connected to the cable. There should be no disconnected wires. If any wires are broken or disconnected it will need to be repaired. If the cable is cut, crushed or severely pinched, the cable may be damaged internally and may need to be replaced. If the XLR connector and cable are good, the problem is internal. You should send your mic to an AEA authorised repair facility for service. If you have a NUVO mic, the phantom is working and there is no signal at all, it could be an internal problem or a blown ribbon. Send your mic to an AEA authorised repair facility for service.
Active Models
N22, N8, R84A, KU5A, A440 has RF interference* and/or hiss and noise.
On the N22 and N8, this can sometimes be caused by a loose set screw on the connector. The set screw is on the side toward the bottom part of the mic about ½” up. The screw needs to back out to tighten, you’ll need to insert a small flat head screwdriver and turn counter clockwise. Make sure to not overtighten and damage the threads.
For all the active mics, try a different preamp to rule out that issue. The active mics need a minimum current draw to function properly and some preamps may not provide enough,. Eespecially the 500 series rack power supplies. If the problem persists, there could be an issue with the active circuit board and you’ll need to send the mic to an AEA authorized repair facility for service.
* For RF interference and hum, you can also try rotating the mic and see if that changes anything.
Hum or buzz
Ribbon mics (and all dynamic mics) can pickup stray electromagnetic fields from power sources near the microphone. There are several methods for reducing the pickup: move the mic away from the noisy source, unplug or move the noise source, or repositioning the orientation of the mic.
Moving the mic and/or mic cable away from power cables, transformers etc. can sometimes reduce the level of hum or buzz in the mic output. Alternately moving a transformer based power supply or disconnecting or powering off nearby equipment could also improve the stray electromagnetic fields in your recording space. If the noise source cannot be powered off or moved away, you can try rotating the microphone so the null points at the noise source essentially canceling it out. With a little experimenting most hum can be reduced with these methods. If the problem persists, there could be an issue with the active circuit board and you’ll need to send the mic to an AEA authorized repair facility for service.
Preamp Trouble-Shoot Procedures
All Models
Preamp has low output or noise
Check your signal path by connecting your mic directly to a preamp without any patch bays in between. Try different cables between your mic and preamp and preamp to your converters to see if that helps.
RPQ2 Preamp is not turning on
Check the fuse located at the power connector. 120VAC uses a 160mA 5X20MM slow blow fuse, 240VAC uses a 80mA 5X20MM slow blow fuse. Try replacing the fuse and see if the unit runs back on.
RPQ500 EQ Switch is sticking
The first thing to check would be to see if the faceplate has shifted causing the switches to catch on the front panel.
If these problems persist, contact an AEA authorized repair facility for service.
Hardware requirements for superficial repairs:
TRP2:
Hex driver (to remove black oxide bolts from front panel): 3/32” Hex Screwdriver
Screwdriver (to remove screws from top panel and side chassis): #2 Screwdriver, standard
Hex screwdriver (to remove set screws from gain/control knobs): 0.05” size Hex Screwdriver
Nut driver (to adjust nuts on rotary gain switch/control switch):13mm Nut Driver
Hex driver (to adjust rubber nuts on DIs): 9/16” Nut Hex Screwdriver
GAIN KNOB SET SCREWS: Cup-point, 4-40, thread 3/32”
CONTROL KNOB SET SCREWS: Cup-point, 4-40, thread ⅛”
RPQ2:
Hex driver (to remove black oxide bolts from front panel): 3/32 Hex Screwdriver
Screwdriver (to remove screws from top panel): #2 Screwdriver, standard
Hex driver (to remove set screws from gain/control knobs): 0.05” size Hex Screwdriver
Nut driver (to adjust nuts on rotary gain switch/control switch): 13mm Nut Driver
Hex driver (to adjust rubber nuts on DIs): 9/16” Nut Hex Screwdriver
GAIN KNOB SET SCREWS: Cup-point, 4-40, thread 3/32”
CONTROL KNOB SET SCREWS: Cup-point, 4-40, thread ⅛”
RPQ500:
Hex driver (to remove or adjust set screws from gain/control knobs):
Nut driver (to adjust nuts on rotary gain switch/control switch):
ALL SET SCREWS: Cup-point, 4-40 thread, ⅛”